Beauty trends inspired by Anna Sui - spring/summer 2015

The look of Anna Sui spring 2015 

As Anna Sui is also a fashion designer I thought that it would be interesting to see how hair and makeup teams interpret her designs into hair and makeup. Anna Sui's clothing always involves lots of movement and sparkles. I love how hair style Garren and makeup artist Pat McGarth have represented this through beauty.

The hair and makeup seen on the catwalk of Anna Sui’s spring collection was inspired by rock-and-roll legends such as The Rolling Stones, The Beatles and Jimmy Page. The stylist that worked on the show wanted lots of movement and texture in the hair.

They created this by using moose and blow-drying the hair upside down until it was almost dry and then flipping it back and adding salt spray to ensure that there was loads of texture in the hair. Garren was the hairstyle that created all the hair styles for the show and he called this style the ‘shag’. He said that his main inspirations for this style were Keith Richards and Jimmy Paige. Postiche hair was used for these looks to add more depth and body to the hair.

Anna Sui said herself she took inspiration for her designs from rock stars and she looked at images of Mark Boland and wanted glitter to be part of the over all look of the makeup. Pat McGrath worked on the makeup design for the show. She added chunky gold and rose coloured glitter to the models bare lids on top and bottom. The over all makeup was very minimal.

From research based on the official Anna Sui Pinterest page I know that Sui called the collection “Kozmik Rock Star”. Inspired the spirit of swinging London during the 60s and 70s and of boutiques like Granny Takes A Trip, I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet, Mr. Freedom, Hung On You, and A Dandy In Aspic.

Below are my three favorite images of Sui's mood board for this catwalk show. All taken from her Pinterest mood board, to view full board CLICK HERE!

As I have to create a look which is based around spring/summer inspired by Anna Sui I thought that it is important to understand what this collection was all about. Given that her collection was inspired by the 60's and 70's I have done further research of these eras to help with my design development for my spring/summer look.

The 60's

As I will be shooting a look inspired by this collection for my timed assessment I decided to research in popular fashion photographers during this time to see what was popular. A photographer I have come across is Hiro, an American fashion photographer. Below are a few images he produced in the 60's.

I love these three images because they have lots of tone and texture to them, this is something that I relate to Anna Sui. I believe that these images also have a lot of detail to them just like Sui's clothing and cosmetics.

Another fashion photographer during this time I thought is relevant to inspirations for a makeup look is Duffy. He was an extremely popular photographer during this time, he even photographed for Vogue and Twiggy during the 60's - which is relevant to inspiration from Anna Sui for her collections. These images were in Vogue in the 60's, the texture of the clothing in the right image reminds me of Sui's clothing range as well as details in her cosmetic packaging.

Although I know that Sui was highly inspired by The Rolling Stones, The Beatles and Jimmy Page I can vision the inspiration for my makeup look to be inspired by other iconic figures of the 60's.

Julie Christie was a popular beauty icon during the 60's, also a British movie legend. I think that she can be a good person to take inspiration from for the spring/summer shoot because she is beautiful and without being over the top, which is something I personally relate to when thinking about Anna Sui as a brand. The image below is of Christie in the 60's in an editorial magazine.

The 70's

I have come across a French photographer that I really like who was very popular during this time was Guy Bourdin. November 2014 - March 2015 there was an exhibition at summerset house called ‘Guy Bourdin: Image maker’. Bourdin had a 40 year career within fashion photography and was self-taught.

Photographed in 1970

Bourdin’s images were to advertise clothing, beauty and accessories. Below are some of my favorite images of Bourdin. 

Photographed in 1973

Photographed in 1974

After looking at these images produced by Bourdin I think it would be great to take inspiration for shape of makeup in these images.

Reference

The Next Must-Have Haircut Is the Shag (no date). The Next Must-Have Haircut Is the Shag. Available at: http://www.style.com/beauty/backstage/2014/anna-sui-hair-makeup-spring-2015 (Accessed: 29 January 2015).

CondeNastMaster (2014) ‘The Look of Anna Sui Spring 2015 - Allure’. The Look of Anna Sui Spring 2015 - Allure. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adLVqKrMT38 (Accessed: 29 January 2015).

(no date d). [DIGITAL IMAGE] Available at: http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/80/0d/96/800d96cfc776d6b552041feb6ad8f96d.jpg (Accessed: 29 January 2015).

(no date d). [DIGITAL IMAGE] Available at: http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/be/4f/ec/be4fec8bb3c338f595a1aceb27f2fc4c.jpg (Accessed: 29 January 2015).
Duffy, B. (2009) ‘Brian Duffy revives the swinging 60s in a major new photography exhibition’, The Guardian, 28 September. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/gallery/2009/sep/28/brian-duffy-photography-exhibition (Accessed: 25 February 2015).
Photography: Hiro (no date). Pinterest. Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/mashallkhattak/photography-hiro/ (Accessed: 25 February 2015).

2015 spring/summer catwalk trends - relevant to Anne Sui

Bare-faced

Models even went onto the catwalk this collection completely makeup free. Back stage words such as ‘natural’, ‘minimal’ and ‘real’ were being used. This can relate to Anna Sui as her makeup products are very minimal. Even models who have walked down the catwalk showing her clothing rage have very minimal base makeup.

Purple eyes

Inspired by Vera Wang that is one of my favourite designers, I’ve worn her perfume ‘Princess’ for special occasions ever since I can remember; purple will be a popular colour for eye makeup this spring/summer.  Pretty lilac or deep smoky grape shades will be worn upon eyes as a statement. I think this can be relevant to Anna Sui as a lot of her advertisements are using pink and purple shades. From my research I have found that purple is Anna Sui's favorite colour.

Red lips

All different shades of red were used on the spring/summer collection shows. In my eyes red lips have never really gone out of fashion but from now all shades of red are going to be acceptable. Missoni used orange tinged red tones while Burberry and Zac Posen used bold scarlet red lips. Topshop Unique and Dolce & Gobbana used rich smudged berry tones. Anna Sui has had and still does produce red lip sticks in her makeup range.

Gilded adornments 

Finishing touches to looks this spring/summer collection was a flash of silver or gold - either piercings, drawn on gold lip rings or some kind of accessory. Even metal circle barrettes were worn at the back of the head and tiny golden shells and starfish added to romantic hairstyles at Valentino. I think this could be relevant to Anna Sui because of the reference she uses - retro style and contemporary culture.

Crimping & low ponytails. 

Stella McCartney had a model walking down the catwalk with a low ponytail which had sections of crimped hair included. This reminds me of Anna Sui because the texture of the crimped hair is similar to all the texture within her clothes that she designs.

The anti cat-eye 

Black eye liner has always been a must have in a women’s makeup bag but this spring/summer show had models wearing eye liner from the middle of the eyes extended past the outer corners and/or with a bold line under the eyes. Peter Philips applied strips of coloured plastic and fabric instead of liner to models eyes. Graphic liner was also very popular on the catwalk. This is like a statement look that I can image Anna Sui using.

Dewy skin 

Heavily powdered skin is no longer the most desired finish for the catwalk. Marni, Simone Rocha and Donna Karan used high shine finishes created with lip-gloss on the lids to reflect light. This is a really lovely finish for makeup - makes the skin look really fresh look which is similar to Anna Sui's previous advertisements.

Woodstock girls 

Inspired by the 70’s with lots of denim with loads of Woodstock waves being used for the shows for Emilio Pucci, Marchesa and Anna Sui’s collections. Shimmery eyes at House of Holland with stars painted on the models faces at the Tommy Hilfiger show had a real 70’s feel to it. I really love this look because it's very elegant and fresh. It's very Anna Sui because it's soft and girly.

Bright shadows

Makeup artist Tom Pecheux used bright shades of MAC blue shadows to create a bold look at top and bottom for Elie Saab. This can be relevant to Anna Sui because if it was done in the right way it could show contrast between the clothing and the makeup.

The ‘new Mohawk’ 

Created by hair stylist Guido Palau created this hairstyle made from multiple knots and a spiky fringe which was described as ‘Bijork at an 80’s rave’. I love this look because it has lots of texture and contrast to all the other hair styles that have been shown in this blog post. 

Valentino Couture spring 2015 

While researching 2015 hair and makeup trends I came across information about backstage at Valentino Couture Spring collection. It was held in Paris where makeup artist Pat McGrath described the hair and makeup as ‘poetic’ and ‘pure’. Hairstylist Guido Paluo described the show as romantic.

I really like this collection because its very elegant reminding me of hair and makeup fashion in the 1900’s. hair was twisted around the head and decorated with small, different coloured flowers.

I think that this collection can be relevant to Anna Sui because it simple and elegant. Soft colours have been used for the makeup - this is important because Anna Sui's makeup products are always soft colours.

Giambattista Valla Couture spring 2015

Another collection that really caught my eye was the Giambattista Valla Couture collection. There was a combination of inspiration from Janis Joplin and Coco Chanel, which had a beautiful and elegant effect. Makeup artist Val Garland said ‘’ It’s a little bit rock meets chic couture’ who worked on the show along with MAC.

Models wore spotted black veils across their shadowed eyes creating a flawless look. MUA Val Garland used two types of grey pencil and MAC Silver Rain over lids to create a gloss over the lids and the brows were very defined.

Hair stylist Orlando Pita used wide black grosgrain ribbon tied in a bow around the models head and their pony ails were placed low on the head, left hanging straight down the back. I think that this style of hair and makeup that has been used for this collection is relevant to Anna Sui because soft makeup and hair styles have been used. 

Reference

Spring Summer 2015 Beauty Trends (no date). Spring Summer 2015 Beauty Trends. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2014/10/03/spring-summer-2015-beauty-trends-catwalk-hair-makeup/gallery/1235029 (Accessed: 29 January 2015).

(no date g). 2014-09-30 10:30:00. Available at: http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/news/g3648/spring-summer-2015-hair-makeup-trends/?slide=3 (Accessed: 29 January 2015).

(no date d). [DIGITAL IMAGE] Available at: http://cosmouk.cdnds.net/14/37/480x721/marc-clp-rs15-0972.jpg

 (Accessed: 29 January 2015).

(no date d). [DIGITAL IMAGE] Available at: (http://cosmouk.cdnds.net/14/39/480x719/dolcegabbana-make-up_ss15-backstage-look-3_resized.jpg

Accessed: 29 January 2015).

(no date d). [DIGITAL IMAGE] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/592x888/Shows/SS2015/New_York/R-T-W/Narciso_Rodriguez/Backstage/00070h_592x888.jpg

 (Accessed: 29 January 2015).

(no date d). [DIGITAL IMAGE] Available at: http://cosmouk.cdnds.net/14/38/980x652/marchesa-backstage-beauty-london-fashion-week-ss15.jpg

 (Accessed: 29 January 2015).

(no date d). [DIGITAL IMAGE] Available at: http://cosmouk.cdnds.net/14/38/480x721/christopher_kane_ss15_beauty_look.jpg

 (Accessed: 29 January 2015).

(no date d). [DIGITAL IMAGE] Available at: http://www.wwd.com/images/processed/backstage/2015/womens-spring-couture/valentino-bkstg/landscape/00-main/valentino-bkstg-008.JPG (Accessed: 29 January 2015).

(no date d). [DIGITAL IMAGE] Available at: http://www.wwd.com/images/processed/backstage/2015/womens-spring-couture/valentino-bkstg/landscape/00-main/valentino-bkstg-011.JPG (Accessed: 29 January 2015).

Backstage at Giambattista Valli Couture Spring 2015 (no date). WWD Magazine. Available at: http://www.wwd.com/runway/spring-couture-2015/backstage-beauty/giambattista-valli?module=Beauty-hero (Accessed: 29 January 2015).

(no date d). [DIGITAL IMAGE] Available at: http://www.wwd.com/images/processed/backstage/2015/womens-spring-couture/g-valli-bkstg/landscape/00-main/g-valli-bkstg-009.JPG (Accessed: 29 January 2015).

(no date d). [DIGITAL IMAGE] Available at: http://www.wwd.com/images/processed/backstage/2015/womens-spring-couture/g-valli-bkstg/portrait/00-main/g-valli-bkstg-013.JPG (Accessed: 29 January 2015).

(no date d). [DIGITAL IMAGE] Available at: http://www.wwd.com/images/processed/backstage/2015/womens-spring-couture/g-valli-bkstg/landscape/00-main/g-valli-bkstg-017.JPG (Accessed: 29 January 2015).

Backstage at Valentino Couture Spring 2015 (no date). WWD Magazine. Available at: http://www.wwd.com/runway/spring-couture-2015/backstage-beauty/valentino?module=Beauty-hero (Accessed: 29 January 2015).